Interview with Joaquim Barreto on Fashion Photography 0

I came across the work of Joaquim Barreto a few weeks back and was instantly transfixed by his images. He captures the beauty of everyday places and uses these unexpected surroundings to tell stories of mystery and intrigue. The result is a very unique and engaging style of fashion photography.

Check out my feature on Joaquim’s work here and our interview below.

What made you want to be a photographer?

It all began when I went on a trip to Thailand in late 2000, I was 25 years old. I had to buy a camera to take on the trip, and I got a Sony digital camera. At that time, digital cameras were just coming out. During the course of 2001, I just keep reading photography books and taking photographs. Then, the first time I ever used my Hasselblad camera, I decided to become a professional photographer. The reasons for this decision was simply how I felt. I felt that I could express myself, I felt happy taking photographs, holding the camera, composing the shot. The artistic impulse was beating very hard and strong. I felt happy about every aspect of photography. It is just the peace that it brings me. The way I feel comfortable about the complexity of a shot. All those feelings are still very strong in me. Nowadays, even though I work with another medium, film, I still prefer photography.

How did you get into the industry? What was your first job?

Here in London I get fashion photography jobs through people I know. Most people I know do not work for high end fashion houses yet. It is a tough industry to break into. Requires time and a great deal of persistence, and even then, no guarantees are made. I do not have an agent.

What equipment do you use?

I mainly shoot digital medium format for my commercial assignments. I use Hasselblad with a Phase One digital back.

For personal projects, I shoot only in film and in all formats. The swimming pool project was shot in large format.

How do you prepare for your shoots?

A few years ago I wrote an article on how to to a fashion photography editorial.  Although, every shoot is different, I still work the same way, but I have change a little as to the importance of certain steps. The pre-planing is the most important part. The more preparation you do before the shoot, the easier things are on the shoot. Nowadays, when I wake up in the morning of the shoot, I am not so concern as I believe that about 80% of the work has already been done.

As a very competitive photographer, I do everything that needs to be done, twice if possible, before the day of the shoot.  But they fall in three major areas: the camera, the location and the subject. The camera relates to what camera format should I use, what lenses, what lighting equipment, natural or flash, etc. The location relates to everything behind the subject. And the subject is the focus point of the photograph. In the end, we are trying to sell clothes. But fashion industry sells clothes by the image that they create. So in a fashion photograph, the clothes must be seen but not necessarily the main focus. It is the lifestyle and image that you sell them.

What do you think are the most important things to consider when shooting fashion?

Once the budget has been set, then the most important things to consider when shooting a fashion photograph are:

1. The idea/theme/story/subject/agenda
2. The model(s)
3. The production crew

Point 1 defines you as a person, as a photographer. If you have a theme or agenda in your work, then your work becomes defined and stronger. Everything else flows from this, the story, the casting of the model to best fit your agenda, the production crew aware of your agenda and work towards it.  I tend to look deep inside me as to what is important and then bring that out when building a story for the shoot. With the discussions of your colleagues, you are able to devise a great storyboard that would complement your portfolio and define you more as a photographer. This bit is actually the hardest part of shooting a fashion photograph for me.

What post-production work do you do? How long do you spend in post compared to the actual shoot?

I normally do very little post-production. I always tell my clients that my retoucher does not take photographs, so I cannot retouch as well as he can. Almost all the photographs on my website have been retouched  by me, and I usually only work on the face, exposure, contrast and other minor adjustments.

What part of the process do you enjoy the most?

My favourite part of the process of taking a fashion photograph is the day of the shoot.

Out of all of your images, which is your favorite?

My favourite image is the one taken at the laundromat.

Who/what inspires you?

The fashion photographer that most inspires me is Guy Bourdin. However, it was the work of Helmut Newton that first got me into fashion photography. I am inspired by all types of photography and I specially like photojournalist such Sebastiao Salgado, Josef Koudelka, Henri Cartier-Bresson.

Living in London, I have been spoiled with the vast amount of art galleries that one is able to visit for free. The National Gallery, The National Portrait Gallery, Tate Museums, V&A Museum, British Museum, among others are great providers of inspiration for my work.

If you house was burning down and you could only take 3 things, what would they be?

My hard drives, camera and my favourite hat.

If you weren’t a photographer, what else would you be doing?

Being an economist, my other love.

Do you have any tips for aspiring beauty/fashion photographers?

Work really hard. Be prepared to sacrifice a great deal. Expect hardships. And if you believe in yourself, then it will a very rewarding career experience.